The Boat Coach: The Road Less Traveled on the St. Johns River
- 8 hours ago
- 3 min read
The poem “The Road Not Taken” by Robert Frost ends with the iconic line, “Two roads diverged in a wood, and I — I took the one less traveled by, and that has made all the difference.” It is less about individualism and more about the weight of making choices.
Almost two decades ago, I was commissioned as a freelance writer by Bonnier Publishing to do a story on the St. Johns River aboard a Regal 35 Express. It was published in Boating Magazine. At that time, I had very little experience on the St. Johns River, so my wife and I, along with our new puppy, stuck to the main channel — a sensible decision.
Since then, we’ve only ventured onto the river to visit Lake Beresford Yacht Club or cool off in Silver Glen Springs. Both destinations sit just off the main channel.
Exploring Hidden Routes with Captain Ashley J. Barnett
Recently, I had the opportunity to participate as a captain on two Freedom Boat Club Captain’s Adventure Days led by Captain Ashley J. Barnett, a highly experienced captain. The first was last fall, with five boats filled with club members. We left from Boat Tree Marina at the northwest end of Lake Monroe and headed north.
Much of the St. Johns feels like a throwback to the 1800s, when steamboats made the river a popular winter destination for northerners. By the 1860s, several steamers were making weekly trips from Charleston and Savannah to Jacksonville and Palatka, and farther south to Lake Monroe. The shoreline is lined with cypress, scrub palms and water hyacinth, teeming with wildlife including alligators, deer, turtles and manatees.
As we headed north, Captain Ashley diverted at marker 80 from the main channel into a side route known as Bird House Alley. This narrow “run” connects the St. Johns River to the Hontoon Dead River. Along the route, dozens of decorated, handmade birdhouses hang from overhead branches. The sight leaves you wondering who placed them there — and why — visible only to those who know where to look.
We continued north along the Hontoon Dead River to Hontoon Island State Park, then back up the St. Johns River to St. Johns River Grille for lunch. I was so taken by the experience that the very next day I brought my wife, Louise, my son, Brandt, and our new puppy back to see it for themselves.
The latest Captain’s Adventure Day led by Captain Ashley took us north to Blue Spring State Park to see the annual manatee gathering. In winter, the St. Johns River can drop to 59 degrees or lower, while the spring remains a constant 72 degrees, drawing manatees in large numbers.
Navigating Weather and Unexpected Adventure
Once again, we stopped for lunch at St. Johns River Grille. Throughout the day, the captains kept a close eye on the weather using various apps — mine being MyRadar Pro. By 2 p.m., it was clear the predicted storms were moving in.
As boats began to depart, those positioned on the outside pulled out first. Captain Ashley mentioned she knew alternate routes that would allow us to move quickly. Just 100 yards from the dock, the rain hit hard.
Passengers huddled under the Bimini top, wrapped in whatever they could find — towels, jackets, even trash bags. The route she navigated twisted through narrow channels I wouldn’t be able to retrace myself. After nearly two hours in steady rain, we made it back to Boat Tree Marina.
Everyone on board seemed to enjoy the adventure and was ready to keep going. I, however, was glad to be out of the rain.
Experience the St. Johns River with Captain Ashley
Captain Ashley later offered to show me even more of the St. Johns River — an offer I plan to take her up on. If you’re looking to experience a different side of the river, I highly recommend Captain Ashley J. Barnett. She’ll take you down the one less traveled by — and that just might make all the difference. You can find Captain Ashley J. Barnett on Facebook, Instagram and LinkedIn.
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